April 18, 2016 - Via Francigena Day 2

Altopascio - San Miniato (29.3 km)

We had stayed the night before at the Hotel Paola, which had been a welcome sight yesterday as we arrived in Altopascio, as it was located just after we turned the corner into the town itself.  Today was going to be a long day, some 29 kilometres, and as our hotel did not feature a breakfast, the first thing we had to do this morning was find something halfway substantial to eat before we left town.  The nearest bar didn't have much to offer, so the substantial breakfast came in the form of a chocolate croissant and a cappuccino.  Fortunately a small grocery store provided some yogurt and fruit before we left town and snacks for the road.

Breakfast

Leaving Altopascio

Not long after leaving town we found ourselves on an actual trail again, and in fact much of the walk to San Miniato is on trail, a welcome relief from yesterday's pavement.  Part of the route took us over the ancient Via Francigena.

On the trail to San Miniato

A part of the ancient path to Galleno

After 7 kilometres we reached the village of Gelleno, where we stopped for a mid-morning cappuccino and met up with one of the Italian group of pilgrims that we have connected with a few times and would continue to do so.

We were hoping to make it to Fucecchio for lunch.  That would put 19 km behind us and leave 10 km to go.  The weather turned warm and we passed the occasional vineyard.

Following a canal and flowering meadows, we walked through flatlands, but we knew there would be hills ahead!

When we finally arrived at Fucecchio we encountered a long staircase leading up to the village, and by the time we climbed that we were more than ready for lunch, and fate decreed that a caffè should appear before us...

A favourite watering hole for pilgrims in Fucecchio

The owner of this caffè and the staff (probably family) are very welcoming to pilgrims.  We spent almost an hour relaxing here with other pilgrims coming and going.  They also have a very nice pilgrim stamp for your passport.  After our lunch the owner invited us to view the town's museums, which was currently closed, but he had the keys and led us down the street and opened the doors for us.  The museum is housed in a former palace, the Palazzo Corsini, with original ornaments and furnishing from the 12th century.

Pilgrims slake their appetites at Caffe Costaali in Fucecchio

After lunch a siesta would have been nice, but the trail called and we knew we still had that 10 km to walk.  Leaving Fucecchio, we eventually found ourselves following a track across agricultural flatlands until finally approaching the hamlet of Otraino.  There was hardly any traffic on the road and the hamlet was only comprised of a few buildings, in spite of this a car stopped suddenly at the entrance to the village and a car following close behind slammed into his rear end.  As we approached, the two drivers were out of their cars and engaged in a heated argument, exhibiting all the passion you would expect of two Italians arguing about who was at fault.  The accident happened right in front of a house, and a man appeared at the upstairs window and joined in the argument, shouting vehemently at the two men, who in turn shouted back at him, as well as at each other.  I'm not sure whose side the man in the window was on, or whether it's just part of the national character to want to be involved in any event that happens just outside your house.  This could well have been the first traffic accident that Otraino had ever seen and was not missed.  We passed by them, with all three still arguing and continued on our way before the whole village joined in.

At one point we had seen one of the canny Italian groups ahead of us turn off the official route.  We were concerned they were going the wrong way until we encountered them again a few kilometres later at the bottom of San Miniato, in the community of San Miniato Basso.  What they had done was followed a more direct route, while we had walked a loop though and around the hamlet of Otraino.

Of course, San Miniato was conveniently place on top of a hill that we could see looming before us long before we got there.

When you finally get close enough to San Miniato you encounter a staircase that gradually brings you up to the village.  Only then do you discover there is also an elevator that you could have taken, but no self respecting pilgrim would contemplate such an easy approach.

Before looking for our accommodation a gelato seemed to be the perfect reward to the day...

We saw three other groups of pilgrims today (they seem to come in groups), one group of seven Italians from Milan, who we are already friends with from yesterday, also another group of seven, and a group of five (both groups also from Italy).  There sure seems to be a lot of Italians in this country! 😉

Cheers, 🍷🍷