Day 5 La Palud to Moustiers-Sainte-Marie

Recounting our 2002 journey, a 6 day walk from Saint-André-les-Alpes to Riez in Southern France...
  
Day 5
Sept 22, 2002 

We were on our way shortly after breakfast consisting of yogurt and corn flakes, besides the usual bread and croissants.     

Leaving La Palud in the morning

We walked the kilometre into town to buy lunch and wine for the trail and shortly afterwards were on the trail (the GR4), climbing steadily out of town.  We continued climbing for the next few hours under a blazing sun, ascending from 2900 ft to 4800 ft.  We thought we left civilization behind us, but at one point came upon a flock of sheep and goats grazing peacefully.

We stopped for lunch at a spot with a wonderful view of Lac de St. Croix and the Valensol Plain stretching into the distance

Always time for a glass of wine

After lunch we began the steep descent passing rocky hoodoos and crags and eventually came out to the highway and then continued on in the scorching heat for another 3.5 km to the pilgrimage destination of Moustiers-Ste-Marie and our hotel at last.  We were drained as much from the heat of the day as from the distance we had covered.

Moustiers-Ste-Marie sits huddled against the mountains

Moustiers-Ste-Marie is well known for the miracles that occurred here in the middle ages, whereby stillborn children were briefly resurrected for baptism.  As well, the the town is known for the gold star that hangs suspended over a canyon wall above the city.  The star is the symbol of a vow made by a crusading knight.  Captured and imprisoned by the Saracens, during the Seventh Crusade in 1249, Blacas d’Aups made a vow to the Virgin, that should he ever see his family and homeland again, he would hang a chain and silver star above his village.

Blacas was eventually released from prison, and the knight, true to his vow, did hang a chain and silver star, suspended between two rocky peaks, above the village.  The star has fallen several times over the years, but always has been replaced.  Today a gold star hangs in its place.

The Gold Star of Moustiers suspended over a canyon

The town is split in two by a gushing river, and our hotel,  The Relais, sits adjacent to a waterfall.  From our room we can see the gold star shining in the sky, as well we can see the chapel in the grotto above.  
 

Room with a view

Le Relais Hotel

 Upon checking into our hotel the others retired to their rooms, while I went out to search for something to slake my thirst and have a quick look around the town.  The first thing I came upon was a gelato shop just about to close.  They made these amazing looking gelatos on a cone that looked like giant wide spread roses.  I couldn't resist and bought two for Cheryl and myself, and rushed back to the hotel before they could melt.  We'd never seen anything like it and it was just the thing we needed to resuscitate us both.